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I have a concrete kitchen table and am looking for a sealer to give it some protection from stains and heat. What is the best product you have that you could recommend that I use.
For the best protection, I would recommend using the High Gloss PU sealer, this will offer the best protection against stains and spills, it is fairly heat resistant but I wouldn’t recommend placing pans directly from the hob on to the sealer.
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Hi, just wondering if your High Gloss PU is safe to use on high gloss white laminate tiles?
The High gloss PU should be ok to use, but, it is not something I have ever tested it on so I cannot say with 100% certainty that it will be ok. You would need to test it before applying to the whole area.
The second coat can be applied as soon as the first coat is touch dry, the amount of time this takes greatly varies depending on the weather conditions but is usually between 1 and 2 hours.
Sealing a surface, especially your driveway is beneficial in the long run, as it provides a protective coating for your tarmac, block paving, stone and concrete. Just as rust proofing is advantageous for vehicles, driveway sealing protects your driveway’s surface from wear & tear.
This is generally about personal preference, whether you want gloss/satin/matt, there are some special cases, if you require an eco friendly sealer the you would require a water based seal, or if you are sealing natural stone such as clay, limestone, sandstone etc then you need a specific stone sealer. Buy from a well established and reputable manufacturer.
No. There are hundreds of types and qualities of resin and hundreds of different types of sealants available in the market, each differ based on the methods and products used for their manufacturing. It is best to trust only reliable sources for buying them.
The short answer is that in 99% of cases, yes, but you must check to be sure.
There are three types of sealer.
We would always recommend that you test a small area, and for this you will need a 2 inch paint brush, a small paint scraper, a flat screwdriver and a small plastic or metal bucket to pour the solvent into [you can order a small 1 litre can of solvent from our website].
Choose a small area to test, probably about 200mm x 200mm (8 inches x 8 inches) and in a low wear area, which will still have a good layer of the old sealer on it. In high wear areas, the original sealer may have worn off.
First of all, apply some solvent to the test area with a paintbrush, rub around and agitate briskly with the paintbrush for 5 minutes.
If the sealer has not softened repeat the process and if the sealer still does not soften it is a polyurethane. Unfortunately no sealer, not even another polyurethane, will adhere so you will need to strip it off before starting [please call us for advice on stripping].
If, on the other hand, the sealer starts to soften and become tacky – add a little more solvent, just enough to keep the mixture of melted sealer and solvent as a liquid for 5 minutes. After 5 minutes lightly scrape over the area with your paint scraper or flat screwdriver and look at the end of the material on the end – this will give you the answer.
If the sealer is solvent based it will become a liquid and nothing but a liquid. It may be runny or quite thick, but it will be a liquid. This shows that the sealer has totally dissolved. As the solvent now evaporates, you will see that the sealer gradually becomes more and more tacky and will eventually it will dry completely. This result shows that the sealer is solvent based and, therefore, totally compatible with our sealers.
If, on the other hand, the sealer does not dissolve completely and just softens there will be a soft deposit or gel on the tip on the blade of the scraper or the tip of the screwdriver, but it will not be a liquid. As the sealer has softened or not dissolved completely this indicates that that the original sealer is a water based sealer. The sealer will remain soft and not set to its previous hardened state. This indicates that our sealer is not compatible with the DIY sealer used on your paving.
If using InvisiSeal you will need to strip any existing sealer as InvisiSeal is an impregnator and any pre-existing seal will reduce its ability to penetrate into the paving
Many of our sealers are solvent based and so should be handled with caution. But they are not dangerous as such. We would always recommend that you wear gloves when applying any product and avoid splashes. If the sealer splashes onto the skin, wash off with soap and water as if left can cause some irritation. If the product splashes into the eyes rinse your eyes with copious amounts of water as it can cause irritation. We must add that if symptoms or irritation persist you should seek medical advice. Once dry it will have no harmful effect and is completely inert. You will find full Health and Safety information on the download section of this website.
Delivery is usually 2-5 days
Generally, when a person is concerned about the paving appearing to be slippery, it is because the surface has got a slight sheen and the brain is warning that it may be slippery. In reality this is often not the case. Sealed paving is widely used throughout the world, not just on driveways and patios, but in shopping malls, shops etc. People are just as likely to slip on another surface as they are to on a sealed surface. Paving would not be sealed if it was potentially hazardous. Just to put it into context, when comparing a wet sealed surface to wet wooden decking, the area of sealed paving would have a significantly better Skid Resistance Value (SRV) than the wet decking. Equally, a surface which has been sealed is less likely to have algae, moss or lichens on it. It is often these growths, when wet, which produce a surface with a very low SRV, and so sealed paving is likely to have a better SRC than a similar unsealed area, which may have some growth on it. If you are concerned that the paving will be slippery because of steep incline, etc., than use AdSeal Low Slip Additive when sealing