Internal Sealants

Internal wall Sealant

Posted in FAQ, Internal Sealants, Sealants, Stone, water based   

This question was asked by
Vivien Gillies

I have uncovered a stone wall inside my house. The stone needs sealed to stop dust but it is also dull looking. What would be the best product of yours to use? I would prefer a gloss finish to a Matt finish. As it’s an internal wall I understand it needs to be able to breathe or damp becomes an issue. Please can you advise?

For an Internal wall I would recommend using our Water based sealer (link below), it is safe to work with when applying it to a vertical surface and it has very little odour so wont smell the house out.

Water Based Sealer Gloss (WB34)

Drew Palin

high gloss sealer for travertine

Posted in FAQ, Internal Sealants, Sealants   

This question was asked by
Keith Askham

can I use this product effectively in a shower area

I have Travertine tiles in my own bathroom, I sealed it with the High gloss PU about 4 years ago and it still looks good as new. The only thing I will say is you need to let the sealer cure for a at least 48 hours before using the area.

High Gloss PU (HGPU)

Drew Palin

Protecting Welsh Slate Flooring

Posted in FAQ, Internal Sealants, Sealants   

This question was asked by
Jared F

I have a welsh slate floor that was put down 5 years ago in a kitchen. It needs re-protecting as the original stuff I applied has now rubbed off and some small areas now have the bare stone showing (places where chair legs have rubbed etc).

What’s your advice for this in terms of products you suggest and the method of application?

I would suggest using the High gloss PU, this is a very hardwearing sealer, but I would suggest removing the old sealer first as it is obviously having issues with adhesion.

Application instructions will be sent with the product.

High Gloss PU (HGPU)

Drew Palin

Kitchen worktop.

Posted in Concrete, FAQ, Internal Sealants, Sealants   

This question was asked by
Alan R

I have a concrete kitchen table and am looking for a sealer to give it some protection from stains and heat. What is the best product you have that you could recommend that I use.

For the best protection, I would recommend using the High Gloss PU sealer, this will offer the best protection against stains and spills, it is fairly heat resistant but I wouldn’t recommend placing pans directly from the hob on to the sealer.

http://www.adseal.info/high-gloss-pu.html

Drew Palin

Is your High Gloss PU safe to use on laminate tiles?

Posted in FAQ, Internal Sealants, Sealants   

This question was asked by
Robert Mckelvie

Hi, just wondering if your High Gloss PU is safe to use on high gloss white laminate tiles?

The High gloss PU should be ok to use, but, it is not something I have ever tested it on so I cannot say with 100% certainty that it will be ok. You would need to test it before applying to the whole area.

Drew Palin

How Much Time Should Be Taken After The First Coat To Apply A Second One?

Posted in External Sealants, Internal Sealants   

The second coat can be applied as soon as the first coat is touch dry, the amount of time this takes greatly varies depending on the weather conditions but is usually between 1 and 2 hours.

Why Is Sealing Important & Why Do I Need It?

Posted in External Sealants, Internal Sealants, Top 20 FAQs   

Sealing a surface, especially your driveway is beneficial in the long run, as it provides a protective coating for your tarmac, block paving, stone and concrete. Just as rust proofing is advantageous for vehicles, driveway sealing protects your driveway’s surface from wear & tear.

How can I know which type of sealant is best for me?

Posted in External Sealants, Internal Sealants   

This is generally about personal preference, whether you want gloss/satin/matt, there are some special cases, if you require an eco friendly sealer the you would require a water based seal, or if you are sealing natural stone such as clay, limestone, sandstone etc then you need a specific stone sealer. Buy from a well established and reputable manufacturer.

Are all sealants of the same quality?

Posted in External Sealants, Internal Sealants   

No. There are hundreds of types and qualities of resin and hundreds of different types of sealants available in the market, each differ based on the methods and products used for their manufacturing. It is best to trust only reliable sources for buying them.

My paving has already been sealed. Can I now use AdSeal Sealer?

Posted in Block Paving, External Sealants, Internal Sealants, Paving   

The short answer is that in 99% of cases, yes, but you must check to be sure.

There are three types of sealer.

  1. The first type is water based which usually can be bought at DIY outlet and some builder’s merchants that supply DIY customers as well as the trade.
  2. The second type is solvent based which is generally used by the trade, as it is much harder wearing and longer lasting than the water based products.
  3. Finally there is Polyurethane which is only very rarely used nowadays on domestic paving If your paving was sealed by a professional contracting company, the chances are that it is a solvent based product, and will be compatible with our sealers.

We would always recommend that you test a small area, and for this you will need a 2 inch paint brush, a small paint scraper, a flat screwdriver and a small plastic or metal bucket to pour the solvent into [you can order a small 1 litre can of solvent from our website].

Choose a small area to test, probably about 200mm x 200mm (8 inches x 8 inches) and in a low wear area, which will still have a good layer of the old sealer on it. In high wear areas, the original sealer may have worn off.

First of all, apply some solvent to the test area with a paintbrush, rub around and agitate briskly with the paintbrush for 5 minutes.

If the sealer has not softened repeat the process and if the sealer still does not soften it is a polyurethane. Unfortunately no sealer, not even another polyurethane, will adhere so you will need to strip it off before starting [please call us for advice on stripping].

If, on the other hand, the sealer starts to soften and become tacky – add a little more solvent, just enough to keep the mixture of melted sealer and solvent as a liquid for 5 minutes. After 5 minutes lightly scrape over the area with your paint scraper or flat screwdriver and look at the end of the material on the end – this will give you the answer.

If the sealer is solvent based it will become a liquid and nothing but a liquid. It may be runny or quite thick, but it will be a liquid. This shows that the sealer has totally dissolved. As the solvent now evaporates, you will see that the sealer gradually becomes more and more tacky and will eventually it will dry completely. This result shows that the sealer is solvent based and, therefore, totally compatible with our sealers.

If, on the other hand, the sealer does not dissolve completely and just softens there will be a soft deposit or gel on the tip on the blade of the scraper or the tip of the screwdriver, but it will not be a liquid. As the sealer has softened or not dissolved completely this indicates that that the original sealer is a water based sealer. The sealer will remain soft and not set to its previous hardened state. This indicates that our sealer is not compatible with the DIY sealer used on your paving.

If using InvisiSeal you will need to strip any existing sealer as InvisiSeal is an impregnator and any pre-existing seal will reduce its ability to penetrate into the paving